Turns out my push rod needed adjusted.
Model a brake rod adjustment.
Do the brake shoe to drum tightening before attaching the brake rod.
Place pin in clevis one at a time and adjust until pin snaps over brake arm.
530 next replace the rod inserting it through hole b in center cross member and connecting the rod to the cross shaft center lever through upper hole c in lever.
Release hand brake lever.
If the brakes are giving you a lot of trouble in your model a and when are they not it may be time to adjust them.
The angle is set with the actuating rod or pills to take up slack.
Never adjust for wear by shortening the pull rods.
Make all adjustments with brakes cold.
The fifteen are after the slop is taken up turn the brake rod eye so the pin just slips in.
Another good brake trick is to balance your brake rods to length.
Front at the wheels and back at the cross shaft.
You will need to disconnect all service brake rods where the adjustment is made.
This video will show you how to do just that.
Turn the adjusting wedge at each brake not the pull rod until the brake drags then back off the wedge 2 or 3 notches or just enough to allow the wheels to revolve without drag.
The brakes are controlled by rods that connect the front and rear wheels giving you the basic braking system.
See that wheels revolve freely.
The second brake system is the emergency brake controlled by a handle in the car when this handle is pulled it expands a separate set of brake bands and therefore hold the rear wheels from moving.
You can lock the rod clevice eye a bit out of plane with.
Jack up all four wheels.
Always be sure that all are loose as you do all four one at a time.
The fifteen degrees is ideal but not set in stone as all cars have some different wear and characteristics.
My brake pedal was super soft after a brake booster replacement.